-
Back the compression
and rebound clickers all the way out and record the settings.
-
With the fork still on
the bike loosen the top triple clamp pinch bolts, crack the fork
cap loose using a properly sized open end wrench, then loosen the
lower clamp pinch bolts and remove fork from the bike.
-
With the fork off the
bike unscrew the fork cap all the way and let the outer tube drop
down (you'll be staring at a spring with the fork cap screwed on
the top.
-
You will see what looks
to be a long nut on top of the damping rod and attached to the
fork cap. Spin the spring (or the whole fork) around so the gap
between the coils lets the wrench get on the nut. There's plenty
of room to get the wrench thru the spring coil. If you can't
get enough clearance for the wrench, grab the spring at the very
top and pull down (hard as you can). Use an open end wrench (17
mm) to hold this nut and another to unscrew the fork cap.
-
Remove the spring, the
solid rod inside the damper rod, and the fork cap.
-
Clamp the fork into a
soft jawed vice by the axel bolt hole.
-
You now need a damper
rod holding tool. Take a flashlight and look down inside the fork
tube to get an idea of what the tool should look like. You're
going to be making a castle nut remover basically the female
version of a +. Go to home depot and buy a 1" piece of black gas
pipe. Take a grinder and shape the end of the pipe to fit. Be
careful and make be sure to do a good job in shaping the business
end of the tool (and the tool will work for years). Once you've
shaped the end you can drill 1/4" hole through the other end of
the pipe so you can use a screw driver to hold it in place when in
use.
-
Insert the damper rod
tool into the top of the fork and get hold of the castle nut (have
someone else hold it in place. Insert a socket drive allen key
into the base valve (where you adjust the compression damping) and
remove the base valve. Remove the guts of the fork and you'll be
left with nothing but the inner and outer tubes stuck together.
-
Carefully use a thin
blade screwdriver to pry the dust cover off then slide it up the
fork tube out of your way.
-
Using a pick or small
screw driver carefully remove the wire "C" clip from above the
fork seal.
-
Grasp the outer tube in
one hand, the inner tube in the other, push them together, and
then bang them apart with authority (like a slide hammer). 3 or 4
bangs and the tubes seals and bushings will separate. Don't worry
nothing will fall out as us do this so once your done note the
order of the components.
-
Remove the old seal and
clean everything spotless.
-
Put saran wrap over the
top of the inner tube (so you don't damage the seals as you slide
the new one on.
-
Slide the Wiper and
seal up out of your way and inert the inner tube (complete with
slide bushings and washer) into the outer tube and let the washer
fall down to cover the bushings.
-
Using a seal driver
Drive the bushings and washer home. If you don't have a seal
driver (and you should) you can make one out of 2"or 2-1/2" PVC
pipe split down the middle.
-
After you set the
bushings you need to set the seal so slide it down as far as you
can then uss your seal driver to pound it into the outer fork
tube. You'll know that everything is right if you are able to
reinstall the wire circlip.
-
You should now be able
to slide the wiper down and push it into place with your fingers.
-
At this point reverse
my instructions and reassemble your fork.
-
Your manual will tell
you everything you need to know about filling with oil and setting
the air space.
